Spicy Roast Cauliflower with Turmeric & Toasted Cumin in hammered copper on The Barn’s reclaimed cedar planks.

Summer has arrived in the Midwest bringing with it seasonal produce.  Local farmstands once shuttered, now open and buzzing with activity.  Stands piled high with fruits and vegetables.  Stirring memories of dad’s quick stops near Erb’s farm before Little League games to score a beefsteak tomato or two.  Perhaps early experiences with in-season, peak-of-perfection produce cultivated my love of summertime’s local bounty found within our town.

However, no doubt my introduction to a mother’s home-cooked, traditional South Indian cuisine by her daughter is the root of my deep appreciation of vegetarian cooking. Long commutes to Hyde Park over thirty years ago with a co-worker and now long-time friend brought new understanding while on the Metra:

Like a breakfast of warmed idli dusted with the hottest of hot, orange-hued powder toted in Ziplock bags. Shared over a crossword puzzle on the 7:25 morning commute.  Or that unusually sour and equally spicy lemon pickle I had never tasted before.  Spread masterfully on slices of toasted white bread shingled neatly with slices of cucumber eaten at lunch.  And most certainly that lemon rice bright in turmeric powder, studded with roasted peanuts and freckled with tiny mustard seeds. Stored in Tupperware, saved for the evening ride home.  These were memorable meals lovingly prepared for a daughter when away from home, enough to share with friends.  They were inspiring and made me curious.

South Indian Lemon Rice and Potato & Green Bean Sambar with Turnip Greens

I had to ask for a recipe.  What I received instead was an invitation to participate.  From beginning to end, including an in-person cooking lesson with her mom at the stovetop in her kitchen.  It started with a field trip to a preferred grocer a few towns over, the closest spot that stocked the necessities. After acquiring the needed spices, peppers and dried legumes, the cooking commenced.  

I recall her well-seasoned pan.  Looked like it had been around for a million years.  Into it glugs of oil flowed. After some time on heat, shimmers above the hot fat signaled the infusion of flavors needed to start.  Several dried ruby-color peppers were broken by hand into pieces, releasing their seeds. Everything inside and out of that pepper needed to connect with the hot oil.  

TEMPERING & TURMERIC

Chopped garlic, fresh ginger and bright green Serrano, all aromatics that sizzled when hitting the pan. Whole cumin seeds scented the room as they bloomed and intensified, with purposeful stirring.  Soaked urad dahl, softened in water, joined the spicy mix.  Carefully, a generous handful of black mustard seeds were added.  I was instructed they would pop and sputter when ready. They danced in that hot pan.  I fondly recall her stern caution that mustard seeds easily burned and would spoil the whole dish.

Her expertise in the art of tempering was impressive.  However, it was her great care to pass things she had been taught or learned in the doing that made a lasting impression on me.  It was something I will always treasure.  For the briefest moment, I felt like I was in the kitchen with my own mother and sister—and just like that so much more than a favorite spicy potato and green bean dish was realized. Not too unlike the urad dahl, I soaked up the gift of hospitality and her generosity of spirit; my understanding of community forever having expanded.

Below is an easier recipe with fewer ingredients reminding me of that recipe learned long ago.  This light and spicy meal is perfect for a summer night.  Although ground cumin is more convenient, I recommend purchasing whole cumin seed. Toast them in a dry, heated pan until they darken in color slightly and the warmed aroma hits your nose—a minute or two.   Next powder it in a spice grinder or by hand with a small mortar & pestle like I do.   You may be surprised how much the flavor increases with this little step. If you don’t have mint and cilantro in your garden or fridge that is ok, omit them.  No pine nuts, no problem.  It is good without them.  I bet it could even be prepared in an airfryer for those who don't want to heat up the kitchen in the summertime.  

Roasted Cauliflower with Turmeric & Toasted Cumin (Recipe found in Food & Wine with modifications)

YOU’LL NEED:

• ½ cup Olive Oil
• 1 tablespoon Ground Cumin (I use whole cumin seeds, toast them in a dry, hot fry pan, then powder with mortar & pestle)
• 2 teaspoons Turmeric
• 2 teaspoons crushed Red Pepper Flakes (1 teaspoon, if you prefer less heat. Or none, if you are sensitive to spicy)
• 1/2 teaspoon Sea Salt, plus more for seasoning if needed.  I don’t usually need it.
• 4 heads Cauliflower, halved, cored, and cut into inch florets (2 heads if the extra-large jacketed ones often found at Farmer’s markets)
• 1/4 cup Pine Nuts
• 2 tablespoons chopped Cilantro
• 1 tablespoon chopped Mint
• Finish with freshly cracked Black Pepper (I prefer Tellicherry peppercorns, but any variety will work)

Preheat the oven to 425°F. In small bowl, combine oil, toasted & ground cumin, turmeric, crushed red pepper, and 1/2 teaspoon of salt.  On two large-rimmed sheet pans, drizzle the cut cauliflower with the spiced oil. Toss well to coat.  Spread the cauliflower in an even layer and bake for about 1 hour, until browned and tender.  Halfway through the cooking (30 minutes), mix the veg around and flip over with a large spatula.   The last 5 minutes of cooking, sprinkle with pine nuts to toast them a bit.  Transfer the cauliflower to a large serving bowl. Sprinkle with fresh black pepper, cilantro and mint.  Serve warm or at room temperature, whichever works.  Use as a main dish with rice or on top of hummus. Or, use as a side to accompany a larger meal.

Golden Cauliflower, Summer’s bounty discovered at Mayneland Farm near Erb’s Old Farm.

May 2024 Genetic Study of Evolution of Cauliflower

Overview

study

Colorful cauliflower, vivid farmstand display of genetics.